Vertical/ Lambo Door Kit Installation
Instructions
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Open door completely and remove the door catch
that is attached to your inner frame and the door.
(do not take doors off)
3. Unbolt and remove front fender completely
4. Using 2” Masking tape, tape door to windshield
so that the door does not move at all when you remove
stock hinges.
5. Remove stock hinges.
6. Now hold up “Lambo door kit” to vehicle and line
up holes. Make sure that the kit will sit flat against
vehicle. If not you may have to use a hammer to flatten
the inner frame so that the kit sits flat.
7. Extend Wires by cutting original harness and extending
wires one at a time. (NOTE: not all cars need this
step)
8. Bolt “kit” to inner frame.
9. Bolt “kit” to door securely.
10. Make sure “kit” is securely bolted to inner frame
and door.
11. Remove tape from door.
12. Open door slowly (CAUTION: door may drop slightly)
13. Lift the door in the upright position and install
shock.
14. Slip the round (bottom) into mount.
15. Then install top bolt to shock.
16. After top of shock is securely bolted, install
dowel pin through the bottom of shock to hold in place.
17. At this point your door kit should work properly.
(NOTE: Adjustments will have to be made with the adjustment
screw, carefully open door and use adjustment screw
to adjust the door to open and close smoothly and
like stock.
18. Before you reinstall your fender, make sure everything
is tight and adjustments are set.
19. Most fenders will need to be rolled. To determine
set fender on car (not bolted) and open door, if the
kit hits the fender then this step must be done. (NOTE:
you can use a dremmel to cut off flap for best results).
20. Repeat on other side.
**Note: It is suggested that this
conversion is done using two or more persons. However,
it is also recommended that this conversion is done
by a professional automotive/body technician. We cannot
be held responsible for improperly installed or non-professionally
installed VDC units and doing so will void your warranty.
1. Remove the fender.
2. Open door and disconnect
door checker from chassis. Close door. This pushes
the door checker into the door and out of the way.
You can secure checker with tape, however it should
not be necessary. Disconnect the battery.
3. Remove rubber base of wire
harness from chassis. Disconnect wire harness from
door.
4. Splice in extension wires.
Suggestions: Splice in wires behind, (on the chassis
side) the rubber base. Crimping tool recommended.
5. After splicing is complete,
reinstall rubber base of harness into chassis upside
down. Check your connections. Make sure no wires are
exposed. Reinstall harness connector into door.
6. Check that all your door's
power accessories are working. For this, you must
temporarily reconnect the battery. Keep battery disconnected
until install is complete. Once again, disconnect
wire harness from door. Use electrical tape to tightly
secure and cover the wire extensions and harness wires.
Reinstall harness connector into door.
7. Remove the stock hinges.
Have someone hold the door to maintain the door's
position until the VDC is securely in place. Attach
the VDC to the chassis and door. DO NOT COMPLETELY
TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Check the VDC diagram for bolt
and washer configuration recommendation. Make sure
the door is aligned properly, checking gaps between
the door and the rest of the body. This is an important
step in assuring proper fit of a closed door. Once
you have achieved the proper fit, tighten the door
and chassis bolts securely. Once again check for proper
door fit.
NOTE: Your door no longer
has the full range of horizontal motion. Be sure to
take special care in remembering this for the future.
8. INSTALLING THE SPRING: Have
a friend hold the door in the open and up position
for you. Put the spring into the spring perch as shown
above. Hold the spring by the body and align the spring's
rod threads with the internal threads in the base
of the end fitting. The end fitting should be screwed
in as close to the arm as possible still allowing
for 90 degree of end fitting movement. Screw the rod
completely into the end fitting, holding the spring
by the body. While doing this it is recommended that
the spring be free of pressure from the door's weight.
Make sure that whoever is holding the door for you
does not allow the weight of the door to rest on the
spring until the spring rod is completely screwed
in. This makes it easier to screw in. Put the cotter
pin through the small hole at the base of the spring
and open the cotter pin ends. Check your work. Make
sure all screws are secure and your harness is intact.
Now you must adjust the door
for sag. This is done by opening the door 2 to 3 inches
horizontally away from the body. (You will notice
the door sags downward at the end opposite the VDC).
Use the sag adjusted screw to adjust the door until
no sag remains and the door opens and closes in it's
new range of horizontal motion without interruption
as well as providing a properly fitting closed door.
Use a hex key to adjust the sag screw. Once you have
adjusted the sag adjusted screw properly, use thread
lock adhesive to lock the sage adjusted screw in place.
Once again, check the door by opening and closing
it's new limited range of horizontal motion. If necessary
repeat the sag adjustment step.
9. INNER FENDER ROLL: For
clearance reasons, the inner fender should be rolled
as follows (tin snips are recommended for this procedure).
Snip inner fender tab at start point 2" to 2.5",
(50.8mm to 63.5mm) below inner fenders tab top. When
snipping, leave approximately 1/8" (3mm} space
between the end of your snip and the fold of the inner
fender tab. This allows enough room for component
clearance as well as maintaining some form of structural
rigidity to the fender. Make snips in approximate
1" (25.4mm) intervals down to just below the
area where the VDC arm would interfere with the fender.
Use your fingers, (no tools), to fold the 1"
(25.4mm) snipped tabs that you have created, to the
inner surface of the fender. Be careful of sharp edges!
Now your inner fender is rolled.
Depending on the amount of corrective door sag and
fender to door spacing, you may need to slot the fender
molding, (if any), slots and push the molding forward
to keep it from being clipped when opening and closing
the door. Reinstall the fenders and connect battery.
YOU ARE
NOW VERTICAL!
YOU ARE
NOW VERTICAL!
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** NOTES FOR NON-DIRECT
BOLT-ON INSTALLATIONS
For custom or universal applications, basically follow the steps as above
for a standard installation. The major difference
is going to be in the mounting of the kit to the car.
In some cases the kit will have mounting holes that
do not line up with the car and will need to be realigned
either by elongating the existing holes, adding extra
holes or drilling all new holes so that the kit mounting
holes now match the car. In the case of welded hinges
on the stock car, the stock hinges will have to be
removed and the kit will have to be welded in place.
The major concern in mounting the kit on a custom
installation is that the kit must be mounted FLAT
and perfectly vertical. This can be accomplished in
many ways. In some instances there are ribs on the
car that need to be flattened. In other cases the
kit would need to be shimmed to be flat and vertical.
This can be done with washers or body shims. For some
vehicles it becomes easier to flatten an area on the
pillar so that the kit is mounted flat. If using the
heavy-duty kit, you may want to shave where the kit
mounts to the door. The heavy-duty kit is very beefy
and some installations will be easier if the bracket
that mounts to the door is trimmed a little to fit.
We supply you with a kit that is heavy enough to allow
a lot of flexibility in installation.
